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Approximately eight coats are sprayed over a three day period. The finish is sanded to 1200 grit until the lacquer thickness is only .005, or five thousandths of one inch. It air cures for at least two weeks before being buffed to that high, perfect sheen for which our instruments are known.


Weber uses the same nitrocellulose lacquer for all of our satin instruments. Over time this finish rubs to a semi-gloss on the neck, where the players arm rests, on the back, and anywhere friction occurs, according to how the instrument is held by its player.

Normal Finish Wear

There are two types of instruments: those that have checks and those that will. Professional musicians' favorite instruments will look like they've been played – a lot. The only time your instrument will look pristine is when you take it home from the store. As soon as you begin playing it, and over time, your Weber will show the same signs of loving use, each scratch, ding and check adding to its history and personality.

  • Instruments, especially carved instruments, will move around with climate changes, shrinking and expanding with changes in heat and humidity which can and will cause checking.
  • Traveling with your instrument and jamming outside will cause wear.
  • Oils from your arm and hands will gradually affect the finish. However there is a small percentage of people whose perspiration will highly react with the finish, creating a foggy, white area and/or wearing or separating the finish from the neck wood very quickly. Many players will have the neck stripped and oiled for ease of play anyway, and this is a good solution to the perspiration problem too. Wiping the "touch" areas after play will help, and if your instrument is showing signs of total finish removal you may need to cover your arm where it sits on the instrument during play.
  • Insect repellants will damage your finish, causing dimpling, softening, and in extreme cases the lifting of the finish from the wood, all of which are costly to repair. Apply your bug stuff and clean your hands before you open your case or handle your instrument.
  • Bare wood showing through on the outside of your instrument is not advisable as the elements will eventually start breaking down the wood and finish at these points. If these are small areas, especially on the points, a small dab of clear fingernail polish will seal these areas. However do not hesitate to contact us with any questions or concerns.
  • Just as your frets will gradually wear with play, the finish will show wear. These signs of active use will give your instrument a patina that all instruments eventually show. None of these things will affect the integrity of the instrument itself – in fact, extreme play will only improve the sound and tone of your instrument.

Caring for the Finish

1. Satin Finish

The satin finish rubs to a semi-gloss over time according to how it is held by its player. To clean any fingerprints, rub the finish very lightly with a barely dampened cloth (a cotton T-shirt would do the trick), or rub very lightly with an extra-fine steel wool pad to remove dirt or stains.

*NOTE: The harder and longer you rub, the more your satin finish will buff up.

2. Gloss Finish

Many polishes may be appropriate for cleaning our gloss instruments, however you should always test an area first, and we can not guarantee the results of a particular brand. Here at the shop, we've used 3M Imperial Hand Glaze for years, which is available at your local autoparts store. When applied and removed with a clean cotton cloth, the glaze will give a new shine to the finish and remove some light pick scratching. DO NOT use canned air to blow dust from your instrument as the propellant can freeze, which will crack your finish.